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kinda putting new ties on here untill i incoperate them into the site this page will disapear when ive done it 
20/11/16
 
TYING AN EP ROACH 
 
 
you will need the following 
 
hook : 6/0 cz or similar long shank lightweight hook  
belly : white ep fiber 
back ; any  combination of green ep ( ive used 3d minnow blend here) 
gill flash :red angel hair 
extra back flash : peacock angel hair 
eye :- 8mm gold 
clear varnish
super glue  
clear mono predator thread 
 
the step by step 
 
 
place hook in vice (really i hear you cry) but actually wrong placement of the hook means your hook will move about in the vice no matter how tight its in so this is my preferred placement for a solid hold  
 
 
 
 tie on your thread so that is in line with the hookpoint and secure with a little varnish , this makes it tooth proof and give the thread a strong base 
 
 
 
take you first section of white ep fibre ( full length)  and place on the hook so you have around a quarter of the material past the hook eye  
 
 
spread the fibre around the hook shank and tie down quite firmly your going to go up to just behind the hook eye as you can see in the picture below (your varnish will still be a little wet which will soak into the fiber , this is all good 
 
 
next fold back underneath the white ep that was sticking out the front and give a couple of wraps to secure this will start to give you the body shape 
 
 
flip the hook over and make sure the fiber is split evenly on each side of the hook 
 
 
take another length of ep and tie in, this section will be slightly longer at the front (this helps with the shape) and secure down with a couple of wraps 
 
 
take your back section again a full length with about a quarter poking out the front then flip it back as you did with the white section earlier and secure with a couple of wraps   
 
 
next you need to add another white section in with again around a quarter poking out the front then add in a pinch of red angel hair and secure with a couple of wraps  
 
 
then take another section of ep (again less is more with ep fiber ) and place it on top of the angel hair 
 
 
then fold back and secure with a couple of wraps and flip the hook back round 
 
 
as you can see the angel hair is now well blended in and a visual trigger point for predators as well as a lovely flash in the water 
 
 
now add a full length of the back fiber with just over the quarter past the front of the hook ete   
 
 
now add in your lengths of peacock angel hair on top of the fiber again some protruding past the hook eye 
 
 
fold it all back and secure with a couple of wraps of thread 
 
 
flip the hook and add one very sparse section of white ep with again a quarter of the material past the hook eye 
 
 
fold back and secure with a few wraps (we only ever use a few wraps so as not to build up too bigger head) 
 
 
tie off and add a few drops of varnish to secure the whipping 
 
 
and heres your 99% finished fly , as you can see by placing ep forward of the hook eye in various lengths you have produced a nice tapered body pattern 
 
 
take your eyes in this case a couple of gold 8mm (i like red 3d stealhead eyes on this pattern  from deercreek but ran out so using basic eyes )
 
 
using superglue (place on the back of the eye not direct to the fiber as it will soak right in and your eye wont stick ) place eye where you want it , i quite like it near the front of the hook eye as i believe it makes the fly balance better in the water  and especially if you use epoxy heads 
 
 
close up of the finished head looking very fishy if you ask me 
 
 
 
and there you have a darn fine looking natural pattern 
 
 
of course you can mix up the fiber colors or add more or less flash or change the eye color like ive  done on the fly above 
 
 
this can be a standard way of tying with ep but by adding flash to it you can pretty much customize and pimp your flies out , i often  mix fibers  together and add flash to create new blends and to be honest theirs thousands of combinations out there so did in and give it a try , one tying method and a thousands different flies .
 
tight lines from the cave fellow flingers 
 
 
 
-------------------------------------
BIG FLASH FLY STEP BY STEP
 
ok folks i had a recent request to do a photo step by step for a large flashy type fly for pike and no doubt muskies would be up for it as well if you tuning in from the states so as always happy to  oblige , for this fly you will need the following 
 
6/0 octopus hook 
magnum flashabou in silver
orange uv fritz  
clear mono tying thread 
uv finish (dont use bugbond it cures tacky) or varnish
 
 
 
1 - ministry of the bloody obvious , stick the hook in the vice 
 
 
2 - add a pinch of strong glue (i use zap a gap ) i wish they would do croc glue again that stuff was awesome 
 
 
3 - take your mono tying thread and wrap around the hook making sure you spread the glue as you wrap round , this give a strong tying base and you materials wont move on the hook when finished 
 
 
 
 
4 - take you flashabou and place along the hook at the point of the curve , leave enough material to fold a few inchs back over this will help profile the fly 
 
 
5 - take a length (around 2 inchs) of chenille and tie in in front of the flashabou 
 
 
6 - wrap around until you have a ball of chenille and tie down (the reason for this will be obvious in the next few steps)  
 
 
7 - now take a few strands of flashabou and place around 3 quarters of it facing away from the hook  
 
 
8 - repeat this on each side and top and bottom and add a couple of wraps of mono to hold in place 
 
 
9 - now take each piece from the top middle and sides one at a time and fold back and secure 
 
 
10 -  now you can see what the ball of chenille does it give the material something to lye on creating a profile when wet  
 
 
11 - take a few full strands of flashabou and tye in this will give you length on the back of the fly , also worth noting you can add any color of flashabou  at this point to create a different back color  
 
 
12 - now tie off and seal with a high quality uv (i still use deer creeks uv as quite simply it is the best out there and cures in a few seconds , unlike other brands which dry tacky )
 
 
13 - a few seconds blast and its cured 
 
 
14 - a fast perfectly bombproof head 
 
 
and there you have it a fast simple and very effective predator fly and worth having a few in your box 
 
below is a few examples of different ideas you can do to pimp em up
 
 
 
have fun 
 
greetings from the cave 
mcfluffchucker 
 
 MYLAR BAITFISH
(may 2015)
STEP BY STEP
You will need 
 
 
e-z body by hareline (medium)
small eyes 4mm
Crystal or micro flash
angel hair (red)
saltwater hook
(im using a 1/0 for a 3 inch baitfish)
Clear mono thread
 
Deercreeks diamond flex
 
 
1 – cut a section of tubing to your desired length , im using 3 inchs on a 1/0 for every hook size up id add an extra inch , when you get to around 3/0 hooks id start using large tubing . and the reverse lower than 1/0 id go for small tubing , of course you can go very small on these for smaller predators (think about dead drifting smaller sizes in streams for trout ) 
 
 
2– Thread the hook eye first through the braid (can be a bit fiddly)  , you can leave the white cotton in the braid as this makes a fine lateral line 
 
 
3 – heres how you need the hook to sit so the eye is just poking out the end of braid and the Mylar going back from the where the hook starts to bend 
 
 
4 – you should have it looking like this on the hook 
 
 
5 – pull the braid back to reveal bare hook shank and add a few wraps of mono 
 
 
6 – Take a small amount of angel hair in your desired colour (I think red works really well)
 
 
7 – Place on hook shaft and tease round the shank and secure with a few wraps
 
 
8 – Take the forward facing section of angel hair and twist into a rope with your fingers and wrap evenly around the hookshank
 
 
9 – Then secure with a wrap of mono 
 
 
10 – Next take a bobbin needle and push remaining angel hair into the tube 
 
 
11- when its all in it will look like this 
 
 
 
12 – Secure with a few wraps of mono till you have formed a head 
 
 
13 – turn the hook around in the vice , ready for working the tail in 
 
 
 
14 – as you can see the cotton core makes a great lateral line 
 
 
15 – take a small amount of crystal flash 
 
 
16 – Heat the end with a lighter and roll to stick the ends together, this makes it easier to place in the tubing 
 
 
17 – place into the tubing 
 
 
18 – Add a few wraps of mono to secure and tie off
 
 
 
19 – Trim any uneven flash to form an even tail profile
 
 
20 – Turn hook around and we are ready for building the head 
 
 
21 – Place a small eye on just behind the eye of the hook 
 
 
22 – add a drop of deercreeks diamond flex uv behind the eye and zap with a uv pen (if you don’t have uv product you can use either epoxy or super glue and varnish but this does take a while to build up a good head shape)
 
 
 
23 – Rotate the hook and continue to build up layers 
 
 
24 – I build up the head by doing the top then the side then the bottom until you get the right head shape . (if using epoxy coat the head then place in a rotary drier till dry) 
 
 
25 – When your happy with the head shape you can then move onto the tail
 
 
26 – Add a small drop of uv to secure the tail in 
 
 
And boom there you have it; tell me that aint a great little pattern
 
Mcfluffchucker
 
(a cave in scotland)
 
 
----------------------------------------------------------------
(may 2014)
NAYAT HAIR BAITFISH 
Heres step by step for a very easy and effective baitfish have it as big or as small as you like or whatever colour you like, looks great in the water
 
You will need 
 
Nayat hair (www.foxy-tails.co.uk)
8mm 3d eyes (www.deercreek.co.uk
Phantom thread
Esox 1 -  6/0
Oliive flashabou
 
Croc glue
 
1 – Take your phantom thread and tie on from the hook eye back to a point level with hook point as 
 
2 – Take a whole length of nayat hair (not to thick) and cut at the base and lay to one side
 
3 – Add a very fine coating of croc glue (this makes the whipping bombproof and gives the nayat something to bond to)
 
4 – Place the nayat on the hook shank and gently press down so it goes all around the hook shaft,  leave a small area behind the hook eye as above , this will be for the next section of nayat ,the length you have on this first piece will ultimately be the final length of the fly
 
5 – Next take a section of your back colour and tie it in on top of the first white piece as above and remembering to leave that small clear area behind the hook eye
 
6 – take a small amount of flashabou (take a whole length of the material rather than having odd lengths left of the hank) and tie in at the head of the fly on the clear bit you left behind you can see this in the photo below 
 
7 – Now we take another full length section of white nayat and place under the hook facing forward, again on the bare hook shank area and add a little dab of croc glue to secure, then take a section of your back colour and tie in the same as the white but on the top
 
8 – Take a pen tube and hollow tie (pushing the materials backwards with the pen to give body volume without the weight) you can see that the flashabou sits nicely in the material also 
 
 
 
9 – Once you have pushed back with the pen hold the material with your thumb and fore finger and remove the pen, then whip the material down to secure (I add a dash of varnish to secure and protect the thread) 
 
10 – Take another long section of flashabou (half a dozen strands) and tie onto the whipping before the varnish dries, we are now ready for the last 2 pieces of nayat to make the head profile
 
11 – we now do steps 7 and 8 again but this time you want to use half the amount of nayat , and also add in a few more strands of flashabou facing forward , this time you should also cut of the excess behind the thread , this allows for a less bulky nose to the fly 
 
12 – This is what you should have ready to hollow tie back; you can see where ive trimmed the waste behind the thread
 
13 – Follow step 8 again and just allow the flashabou to sit naturally where it wants to go
 
14 – once hollow tied finish off with a few wraps , then a small amount of varnish to secure 
 
15 – There you have the basic fish shaped nayat fly now we are ready for the eyes
 
16 – The eyes have a sticky backing so you can test for the best position before you start to apply the epoxy once your happy with where the eyes are going take them off
 
17 – I use a small amount of 5 min epoxy ( z poxy is the only one I use ) if im doing a lot of the same fly ill use a longer setting epoxy so mix the epoxy up (cocktail sticks are good for this) although I have an old wine cork with a darning needle stuck into it 
 
18 – take a blob of epoxy and push it through the material , this will give you the weight the fly needs for the dying fish movement in the water and a firm base for the eyes to stick to
 
19 – Place some more epoxy to the side where the eye is going to go and place the eye on and leave to set
 
and there you have it a bloody great looking baitfish , of course you can choose what ever colors you like these just float my boat for the predators , and action these flies have in the water is stunning due to the fluid movement of the nayat , it Really is an amazingly easy fly to tie have a go
 
Mcfluffchucker 
 
(A cave in Scotland)
 
TIE A GLISS AND GLINT PLUS BULLHEAD
 
(The ultimate pike glidebait fly)
 
 
STEP BY STEP
 
 
 You will need
Hook- 6/0 wide gaped hook
Thread – phantom thread or clear mono
Body – gliss and glint plus perch (or colour your choice)
Varnish – a touch clear varnish
Glue – croc glue (the toughest glue on the plane)
Eyes – 8mm hard eyez
 

 

Supplier links at the bottom of the page

 

 

 

 
1- Firstly place a little glue onto the hook shank then lay down 2 wraps of mono along the shank finishing in line with the hook point

 

 

 
2- Add a second very thin layer of glue at the rear end of the hook shank, where the thread finishes (this is to protect against teeth and give you a longer lasting fly)  

 

 

 
3 – Take a pencil thickness length of gliss and glint (a whole length) plus and fold in half, then whip on to the hook , before you ad the next lot add a touch of varnish on the whipping (again to help guard against teeth)

 

 

 
4 –you next take another section of gliss and glint plus tied in slightly in front of the last piece fold on
 Half underneath the hook and one half on top as above and that sorts out the tail end now for the body 

 

 

 
5 – Building the body is pretty much a repetitive thing as you do the following steps over and over until you get to the hookeye  , so first take a whole section of gliss and glint plus and cut it in half 

 

 

 
6 – Take one of the sections off gliss and glint plus and tease out the fibers so they are uneven as above 

 

 

 
7 - Take one piece of gliss and place just in front of where you have tied in the tail make sure 90% of the material is towards the tail, the 10% that’s facing forward will form the head. You now need to place the same amount of material underneath and on the sides so you use 2 full sections of gliss cut in half to give you 4 sections 

 

 

 
8 – Once you have placed all 4 pieces on as in step 7 add a touch of varnish and make sure it goes all around the whipping 

 

 

 
9 – Pull all the sections back as above 

 

 

 
10 – Then whip down as above and varnish the whipping 

 

 

 
11 – Follow all the steps from step 5 to build up the body, don’t be concerned if you think the body is to bulky we will trim it down at the end of the tie

 

 

 
12 – the final tie , you can see the fish shape formed nicely , although you may think this is quite bulky there’s actually not a massive amount of material involved 

 

 

 
13 – Once the final piece has been tied in whip of and varnish to seal 

 

 

 
14 – The raw finished bullhead 

 

 

 
15 – Allow the varnish to dry and take the fly out of the vice ready for trimming 

 

 

 
16 – time to trim , now with trimming the best thing is to trim small amounts at one time (you cant stick it back on if you cut to much off)  always trim from the back towards the front , I usually start the sides first and work round , you need to start your trim from the hook bend back 

 

 

 
17 - Once you have started trimming you’ll start to see the shape form very quickly 

 

 

 
18 – if you want a larger profile only trim the sides and bottom , this works well for bream and perch patterns and the action will still be the same 

 

 

 
19 – The fly fully trimmed and waiting for eyes 

 

 

 
20 – take 2 8mm hardeyez and trim the stems, you need to make sure you don’t trim them flush as you need a little bit of stem to secure them properly , if you trim them flush they will at some point just fall off and you’ll lose the action of the fly

 

 

 
21 – hardeyez with stems cut down just enough left to hold them securely in place 

 

 

 
22 – Next you need to mix up a five min epoxy

 

 

 
23 - Take you dubbing needle (I use a wine cork with a darning needle stuck into it) and force the epoxy into the head this adds to the weight of the head and the action of the fly, remember to push the needle right through 

 

 

 
24 – add the eyes and hold them in position for 2 mins and that’s you bullhead ready to fish
 -----------------------
You can do this fly in any size you like or any color just reduce the size of your eyes to match the head
 
Supplier’s links
 
Hook- 6/0 wide gaped hook
Thread – phantom thread or clear mono
Body – gliss and glint plus perch (or colour your choice)
Varnish – a touch clear varnish
Glue – croc glue (the toughest glue on the plane)
Eyes – 8mm hard eyez
 
 
 
check back for more step by step by steps as i do them for all my predator step by steps please visit my website 
 
 



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