Birkebeiner

The Birkebeiner, which translates to english as birch legs is the name of a Ski Track running from Lillehammer to Rena in Ostdalen .

The name Birkebeiner comes from the route the rescued infant Norwegian King was taken.       He was rescued from Danish invaders and taken over the Fjells by the locals on skis.      At the time Goretex was not around so they wrapped their legs in birch bark as protection, hence the name Birkebeiner or birch legs.

The broad motorway of the Birkebeiner Loipe running from Lillehammer to Rena

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So.... for history.    However the alleged route is now a first class ski route stretching 58 km from Lillehammer to Rena.

Click here to link to the Birkebeiner race web site

Every 3rd Saturday in March the "Birkebeiner" race takes place.    A spectacle of around 10000 skiers.    I have seen it a few times and have been tempted to have a go getting as far as signing up.    I'm not really a racer though but have done the trip as a tour from Sjusjoen.      The true route runs all the way from Lillehammer to Rena but there is no law to stop you breaking the Birkebeiner into sections.  To ski from Sjusjoen to Lillehammer is described in "Ski Tour Suggestions"   and is the west 14 km of the route.   Described in Tour 5 "Ski to Lillehammer"

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I will describe the route from Sjusjoen to Rena as a suggested ski tour.

10 )   SJUSJOEN TO RENA ON THE BIRKEBEINER

You will need good weather for this trip and set off early with plenty of food in your rucksack.

There are two reasons to set off early.   One is to allow for any mishaps on the way and two is to try to avoid the outrageous taxi ride prices to get you back to Sjusjoen.  How to avoid the taxi ride is to get back to Lillehammer before 17:20 to catch the last bus back to Sjusjoen.  How to do this is to arrive in Rena by 14.55pm at the latest to catch the train at 14:59 to Hamar to get the 16:00 connection to Lillehammer to arrive at 16:55 before the last bus to Sjusjoen at 17:20.   I did this trip twice in 2009 and once in March 2010. Twice made it on time and the other time did not.    

So.....Set off at 8am or earlier if you can.      Pick up the Birkebeiner from Sjusjoen and off you go eastwards.    It's an easy gentle climb up to Midfjellet but dont do what I did and end up in poor visiblitiy heading up onto Snorvillen. It seemed very steep, what was wrong?.... until I saw in the lifting mist a grooming machine off to my left!     He was on the Birkebeiner.      Once at Midfjellet you are at the highest point of the Birkebeiner but dont get complacent as there is a long way to go. 

Huts at Midfjellet. The highest point of the Birkebeiner 

 

   Rest at the huts there.  Over the top fom Midfjellet there is a fabulous run down to Grunna and Kvarstaddammen in Astdalen.    It's a motorway of a loipe but you will probably see few people. 

                                      At Kvarstaddammen the loipe runs along side the road for a kilometer or so and then crosses the fast flowing Asta river.    Bear right after the bridge, then its the beginning of a long climb up through the forest to Nysetra, a small cabin settlement at 749m.    In March 2009 I set off from Sjusjoen with a bad forcast to do this trip.     The weather was not bad but not great until I reached Nysetra.  At Nysetra a real snowstorm came in with wind.    I had to make a choice go on or turn back. I was around half way so decided to go on with the next phase to cross the Raudfjellet and Dolfjellet the most exposed and wild part of the journey.  

  

The wild and exposed Raudfjellet

Once above Nysetra the forest gives out onto open Fjell and a line of sticks marks the way.      It's about 5 km to Dambua the next sheltered spot. On this trip I decided if I could see the next stick I was safe.    I could until I noticed my vision fading.    Ice was covering my eyes, this was turning into an epic.   At least I knew the route having traversed it about 18 days earlier.     The snow was drifting from the north and there were no other ski tracks to be seen.   Big drifts and the battle for Dambua was a hard one.        I did it though and what a welcome sight to see the shelter hut and some trees looming out of the driving snow.         You have to watch your time as I didnt fancy the 550NOK (€64) taxi fare so a quick slurp of tea and off again up on to Dolfjellet.    The same again but some shelter as you skirt round the south side of the summit of Dolfjellet at 842m.  

Over Dolfjellet the view opens up and destination Rena lies in the hazy distant valley

From here it's a wide run down now thankfully for me into the forest with the wind and blizzard screaming in the trees.   At least no navigation issues now!       The run now is down to Skramstadsetra and you will feel you are almost there.       But no ........Still 10km to go.  If you have time there is a cafe at the Skramstadsetra Fjellstua just a few metres to the right hand side of the Birkebeiner Loipe.   The Fjellstua opens at 12 for hot drinks and food.

Skramstadsetra Fjellstua

    Here I noted it was 2 pm and the train goes at one minute before 3.    I had 59 minutes to do 10km.     Could I do it after the exhaustion of the Raud and Dolfjellet.      Give it a go....and in my favour..... it is mostly downhill.     Pushing hard and trying to perfect my techinique to glide on every stride. I needed every last millimeter.  

On through the woods with some welcome downhill stretches putting time into my time bank.    Eventually there is the welcome end to the Birkebeiner as it runs out onto a wide farm field!     Thats it.   

The Birkebeiner runs out into a broad field. Thats it you have done it...Well done!   But you still have to navigate to the town of Rena

  However you still have to get to the centre of town which is where you can get frustratingly lost.  I have attached a sketch map to help you navigate the last bit to the Station at Rena.     Basically you will end up in a housing estate in "all action Rena".     Keep right to the school and at the school a path heads down to the left and over a bridge across the rail tracks.   

  

The Birkebeiner Loipe runs out into a broad field. Keep slightly to the right and follow ski tracks to the wooded area at the Lys Loipe. (Lighted Loipe)   You must go left here following the track down to the road where you run out into a housing estate.  Go right to the school.  Below the school there is a footbridge crossing the road and railway with the pathway taking you right to Rena station.  

 

Cross the footbridge over the road and railway into the town of Rena

 If you have time Rena is worth a look around and a good place for a a bit of shopping.      Its like being in America, wide roads and clapboard buildings.    The first time I skied to Rena I missed the train because I didnt read the timetable properly so had an hour or so in town waiting for the bus.     What a tortured journey to Hamar via Elverum it was.

Anyway you cross the bridge and the station is about 300 meters along the road to the right.      If you get there well done, if like me you are pushed for time hurry to the station.     So, I was late indeed I had skied hard all the way from Skramstadsetra and as I crossed the bridge running I glanced down at the tracks.   They were well drifted over after this snowy day.  No train had passed that way, so it was good news and I ran and ran to that station.    A crowd of soldiers were waiting on the station so I was happy.     Now I had stopped I realised how exhausted I was, I had pushed hard, I like it, good excercise, whats wrong with that and the challenge of the winter hills.      

A few minutes later the diesel train came pounding into the station in a cloud of powder snow 10 minutes late.     The ride to Hamar is fast and on this occasion in a cloud of snow.   I must have looked done in as two women came over to me on the train and asked if I was ok, that was kind of them.

Its now a case of running into Hamar and changing to the connecting train to Lillehammer.     You will arrive in Hamar at 15:46 ready for the 16:00 to Lillehammer which arrives in Lillehammer at 16:55.     Just a nice time for the 17:20 bus up to Sjusjoen.     I well remember a tiny slice of new moon shimmering in the sky as I waited for the last bus in Lillehammer.  (Note...All these transports run every day of the week including Sat and Sunday.) The pint or two in the Hoyfjells Hotel that night was worth every last krone and tasted sweet.

Congratulations you have done a fine round trip, and if like me when you reach the urban environment of Hamar and the cold damp wind is blowing about the desolate streets you may not believe you have conquered the high Fjells.

 

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