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'Art and craft' - a near perfect restaurant review by J Blythman
11 November 2009

riverside illustration copyright of and permission by adrian b mcmurchie
Riverside illustration copyright of and permission by
 
 
Sunday Herald restaurant review by Joanne Blythman
 
The lady in the paint shop tells me the pre-Christmas home decorating season is under way. When the clocks go back, we start focusing on interiors, tutting at dated wallpaper and scuffed walls. And who knows, when you’re steam stripping three layers of wallpaper, you might get lucky and uncover something amazing. That’s what happened at The Riverside, where they found a 25ft mural, The Falls Of Clyde, painted in 1969 by Alasdair Gray when the place was a pub. Two years ago, new owner, Andy Boyle, got Gray and a restorer to bring it back to its former glory.
 
This tableau alone makes The Riverside worth a visit, but the food is quite a draw too. The cooking of chef Paul O’Malley has freshness and maturity, so there are unusual twists, but the whole thing is harnessed by a sound palate and underpinned by a grounding in classic techniques and principles.
 
By way of novelty...
 
To read the full restaurant review click on the external link below

Review published on 10/11/2009 © Sunday Herald

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