April 2014

 

03/04/2014

As the car stands at the moment. ready for me to take the loom out before going in to the 1.3 in a few weeks once I’ve scrapped the 1.6 shell.

 

08/04/2014

 

Attached are photos of the engine loom that is now out of the car.
I'm not sure how it will work but I’m going to try to only change the engine loom complete with engine bay fuse box.

The 1.6 fiesta that the loom/fuse box is out of is a Ghia spec so the fuse box should have everything and more to run the 1.3 body wiring loom. It should also be the same as ford keeps the same style of fuse box as far as i know.

 

 

20/04/2014

 

Big update with a few pictures.

Sold the leather interior to give me back a little bit of income. To remove the seats etc it is pretty straight forward.

 

I’ve removed the dash board to gain access to the wiring loom as the pictures show before. I was dreading doing this but it is actually quite straight forward. There is a few earth points to un bolt around the chassis but otherwise everything is clipped on. The loom is not out yet because I haven’t found a big enough box to put it in to.

 

Removed the spare wheel from the rear, unfortunaly that’s were the fun began. Even though the car is not that “old” There is a lot of rusted bolts, nuts etc. I had the heat up the thread of the hanger to drop the wheel then use a impact gun to spin the wheel carrier down.

With the wheel out the way i could go about saving the exhaust. I had cut the center section close to the cat so I dropped it from the hangers and tried to feed the exhaust out the back over the rear beam. This did not work J the back box was very rusty so a bit of levering and a little bit of grinding, the back box broke off on the entry and thrown in the car for scrap. With the back box off I could then feed the exhaust to the front of the car and pull it out from underneath.

Next to tackle at the rear was the full tank. I left everything with coming in or out on the tank while the bolts were undone. 2 of the rear bolts always go and this was no exception. I clean the threads with a wire brush before using an impact gun breaking the weld on the nut. I had to get a set of mole grips and attach them to the nut and the use the gun again. I also found a 10mm open ended spanner with the nut the right way round held it well. The other 2-3 nuts at the front of the tank came off with no problems because they go into the chassis. With the tank loose I used the mole grips to hold the tank up at the 2 rear mounts so I could remove the filler pipes, these had the pinch type clips holding them on, a pair of old side cutters pops them off without the need to cut them. I just broke off the fuel filter housing as I won’t need it again. With those out the way I took off the mole grips to drop the tank. It drops to a good height to gain access the pump. Disconnect the wiring loom and the 2 fuel lines, fuel will come out so make sure you have a container to catch the petrol in. The tank was pulled from under the car.

 

The advert on the 1.3 fiesta said that the boot popper was not working, I thought at first that there was no solenoid in the boot as there was no noise and given the age of the car someone may have changed it. Undoing 1 plastic screw and its base the rear panel of the boot came be forcibly removed.

 

You can then see clearly the solenoid that’s held on with 2 black screws. Remove the green plastic of the cable popper from the solenoid housing then undo the 2 black screws hold it all in place.

 

The solenoid can then be rotated so the white plastic of the cable is at 90 and will then slide out. Remove the solenoid,

 

 

unplug the wiring and remove the earth point. Swap and then test. Works. Putting back was the same as removing.

 

 

After looking in to the boot skin there seems to be a bit of rust along the seam (on the 1.3 blue boot). I can only think that sand blasting would be needed to remove the rust then treat it. The 1.6 boot is black and actually in better condition. I may look at removing the glass of the 1.6 boot and cleaning that all up, to go on the 1.3. I’m not sure on what colour the car is going to be yet, Matt black has been suggested??

 

Removing the brakes... supposed to be easy, sorry it is easy 4 bolts done. Nope not mine. I can’t believe the cars brakes as rusted as they are. The carrier bolts actually came out easy with a 7mm allen key tool, the carriers themselves were ‘as one’ with the hub. I am a firm believer in heat with help remove most bolts/nuts from a car, today I lost and resorted to a grinder to remove the carrier arm from the hub as the only way, good job the cars going for scrap. With the brakes off the calipers are in poor condition, I don’t think it will be any benefit to clean them up fit a seal kit for £30 and then sell them on.

 

Once the brakes were removed I could remove the drive shaft. I have never done this before and it was a pig of a job. With the nut off using a 32mm socket and a crow bar to stop the hub from turning, I used a 3 prong puller to force the drive shaft into the car. I needed to use quite a bit of heat because I didn’t have any WD40. I thought the puller was going to break as i was putting a lot of effort into tightening it up. Luckily I heard a pop and the turned the puller again till it got very tight and then it popped again, result a few more pops and the drive shaft came out. Looking at the splines there were a few rusty colours along them. The other side was even harder, borrowing Thors hammer i bashed the end of the drive shaft with the nut on to help shock it out, again using more heat than the other side, eventually it decided to pop and the 3-4 mins of ¼ turns could begin. That’s another out.

 

Looking at the cross member in the engine bay there’s a couple of things I want to keep, Steering rack, gear box support, anti roll bar.

 

With the car jacked up on both sides I used the impact gun to undo 4 bolts holding the cross member on, also remove the 3 smaller bolts that hold the gearbox support on. With the cross member supported on a trolley jack, I had enough room to get a socket on the antiroll bar mounts. When I put this anti roll bar on the 1.3 I’m defiantly using poly bushes here. I don’t need the ARB links so I went through them with the grinder. The steering rack is only held on with 2 bolts so the nuts are now off and the bolts are still holding the steering rack in place so I can remove it once the car on the back of the scrapper truck. The track control arms are also held on with a finger tight nut.

Removing the heater matrix and A/C evaporator was quite easy, remove the 4 screws under the windscreen holding the plate in place, remove the pipes off the 4 pipes sticking out. Use a bit of WD40 down the rubber grommets to help them come out, remove the plate and pull out the evaporator and the matrix.

 

The cars ready nearly for scrap, Last things to take off are

door locks and actuators,

windows and window regulators,

put the interior loom into a box

 

I have got the flywheel back from the machine shop and it looks good, I may have to play about with the hydraulic clutch a little to make it feel ok but I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it.

I haven’t got the exhaust flange made up yet as I don’t know what size exhaust pipe to use on the final system, I’m going to use the 1.6 system to get the car drivable but it needs to last a little while as it will be Christmas before I  get a nice exhaust put on. I have a old cat from a range rover that should be good for the mots. It needs to have a pipe welded straight on it, and a flexi at the other end.

After watching Edd China working on a mk1 xr2, I have a spare gearlever off the 1.6... I can’t weld but I’m looking to get a mate to adapt the gearlever to short shift it.

 

21/04/2014

Just bought a front brake upgrade from a st170. Not sure on the age of the calipers but they should fit behind the Mondeo 16” alloys I have to go on. Once I’m happy that the standard hoses will fit to the st170 caliper I will buy a braided hose kit based on the fiesta.

 

25/04/2014

Got the 1.6 rear drums and backing plates sand blasted today, paid £10. They look good. I have some black high temp enamel paint to cover them inside and out.

New cylinders, pads and bearings to go on.

Took the bearings out of the drums and then washed them down after being blasted. Once washed I put them in the oven at 50c to dry them out and warm them up, then treated them to jenolite rust preventer. This dried of very quickly and will give the enamel paint something to stick to. The backing plates were pretty much clean with no rust on them because I didn’t have to wash them. I hung these up and coated them in black paint now leaving them dry. Heating up metal before painting always seem to give a better finish.

 

 

 

March 2014

May 2014