What do we deal with?
We may undertake the following:
1) Block Paving
2) Slab Paving
3) Fence Fitting
4) Gates Fitting
5) Decking Installed
6) Wooden Sheds Built
7) Gravel/Pea Shingle Laying
8) Various Steps Built
9) Turf Laying
10) Artificial Grass Installed
11) Brickwork Services Offered
12) Pergolas Installed
13) Various Repairs
14) Drives/Patios/Paths Jet-washed, Kiln-dried & Water-proof sealed
And much more...
Work stages:
Driveway preparation
Every new project starts from the initial preparation.
Almost always, when we start a driveway we involve a digger on the site. Since every job is treated individually, we assess the ground structure before deciding how deep we will dig. In addition, if heavier than standard domestic vehicles will likely park on that drive (such as heavy vans, etc), we notify our customers in advance that we intend to dig deeper. Therefore, there can't be a standard depth we rely on. However, we shall dig deep enough to make sure all trade regulations and standards are fully met. All waste is transported away afterwards.
Next step is the sub-base. We use type one mot, road planning, recycled type one mot or crushed concrete as a sub-base, depending on every job compatibility. Sub-base thickness, again will be built in accordance to ground structure, respecting all trade regulations. Sub-base will initially be run over with the digger and further compacted several times by a heavy compaction vibrator plate. This concludes the preparation stage.
As weeds and moss are a problem for almost all gardens, we fit a heavy fabric weed-control membrane on top of the prepared base. This must cover at least 95% of the working area.
If we will be laying paving blocks, next step will then be semi-wet sharp sand. We make sure to create a thick & workable layer which is then compacted for the second time and finely levelled using either a large wooden rake or bars.
Patio and pathway preparation
Unlike driveways, patios and/or pathways will need less digging out and subject to accessibility, we may or not involve a digger on the site. If no accessibility, we have to dig manually. After this point, the rest of preparation is done in a similar way to drives.
If we will be laying slabs/flagstones, at some cases we lay these on top of compacted and levelled sharp sand and some other cases we apply wet mixed mortar on top of the sub-base at a ratio 1:5. Slabs/flagstones are then fitted individually and tapped slightly with a mallet.
Drainage and levels
There are four ways of working with levels; straight, down slope, up slope or a tilted level. In a natural down slope (water falls away from entrance) we usually follow it with the way we finish the job. In an up slope (water falls towards the building) we usually install drainage (either as soak-away or connect it with the nearest downpipe). Soak-away drainage is created by initially digging a very deep pit, which is then filled with 40mm gravel for water penetration. Then clay or plastic channels are fitted on mixed concrete. However, with new SuDS regulations introduced since 2008, even a down slope drive may require a soak-away drainage installation plus channels fiited (unless customers have opted for permeable paving blocks).
Right after sand is finely levelled, paving blocks (or slabs/flagstones) are installed on top of the compacted sand.
Colours and patterns
Block paved driveways, patios or pathways usually involve 5 basic colours and 4 patterns. Trade pavers' basic colours involve; Brindle, Buff, Charcoal, Red and Grey. Additionally there are more premium pavers' colours, upon preference we show customers our brochure with a range of colours. Slabs/flagstones also have a wide range of colours, shapes and designs.
Most popular paving blocks' patterns are: 90 degrees Herringbone, 45 degrees Herringbone, Basket Weave and Stretcher. Individual slabs/flagstones may be laid in a Basket Weave, Staggered, Stretcher or Crazy design. Rectangle or circle kits will have to be laid following their recommended design, in accordance to the available size of individual slabs/flagstones involved in the kit.
Materials we work with
Standard concrete paving blocks are the most popular and affordable way to pave a drive, patio or pathway. These come in 50, 60 or even 80mm thickness. However, we do also deal with tumbled paving blocks (two, three or even four-sized), clay blocks, cobbles, etc. In case of slabs/flagstones, we pave with 450x450mm, 600x600mm, 600x750mm, 600x900mm, two, three or more size slab rectangle kits and slab circle kits. We can fit concrete slabs, natural sandstones or outdoor porcelain tiles.
There is also a very wide range of gravel in the market. These vary from fine, 10, 20, 40mm gravel or large pebbles and also different type of gravel used. We show our customers brochures with a range of materials, so they may pick their choice.
Manhole covers
There are two types of manhole covers we use, Clark-drains or Recessed. This is one of work processes which requires exceptional skills. For example, when a recessed manhole cover is involved on a project, not only we make sure this is fitted totally level with the rest of the surface, but also is solid to sustain daily pressure and paving design matches with the rest of the drive/patio/path. Recessed manhole covers (usually filled with blocks or slabs) indeed cost more to buy and fit, but are usually considered the best choice because are nearly invisible and cosmetically better looking than the flat Clark-drains and much stronger. Accessing the drain is very easy, via the handles.
Laying all blocks, slabs (or gravel) concludes the main project stage.
Cutting, advanced edgings and the finish
When paving blocks or slabs/flagstones are installed, we arrive at project final stage. All cuts are done in order and any loose edgings are cemented in place. We use a mechanical block splitter and/or a 230mm angle grinder to cut blocks and slabs/flagstones. We always make sure these are cut with the best possible precision. Then we cement all edges using mixed concrete of a ratio 1:1:3 or 1:1:4. If advanced edging is required, such as edging kerbs, restraint kerbs, scalloped, rope-top, etc we fit these on mixed concrete under and from both sides before blocks or slabs are installed. Drainage channels are also cemented from underneath at all ocassions.
Right after, the site is compacted for the final time, using the compactor plate. We do not compact slabs/flagstones.
Sealing a paved drive/patio is the final process of this stage. We usually use Kiln Dried sand to seal the paving blocks.
If we have worked with slabs installed with a 10mm joint, we use mixed mortar of a ratio 1:4 to seal the gaps. If we have to work with straight-edged slabs we use Kiln Dried sand to seal the gaps.
When concrete or sandstone slabs are installed on mixed concrete, we seal the gaps using mixed mortar, wet jointing compound or Geofix. Porcelain tiles are always fitted on a wet base of mixed mortar, divided via equal spacers and gaps are sealed with a special wet jointing compound.
The sealing process concludes the last stage and the whole project.
Steps
We deal with rectangle, half-circle, double and even triple steps. Steps are built using either different size restraint kerbs or standard 65mm bricks. We use mixed mortar of a ratio 1:1:3 as a base for the bricks or kerbs and will also concrete the paving blocks or slabs/flagstones included on top.
Fencing, gates, trellis and more
In many of our projects, we work with different types of fence panels. When we use timber or concrete posts to support our panels, we always make sure these are fitted at least 550mm under the ground level, are perfectly level and mixed concrete of a ratio of 1:1:3 or post fix bags are used to support them. Customers usually opt for gravelboards fitted under fence panels, in order to prevent these from rotting underneath. These are either plain, recessed or rock faced and are slotted between concrete posts or bracketed onto the timber posts. Panels come in many sizes, shapes or patterns and are always fitted accurately using a spirit level, or in regular steps if natural ground level is not straight. In case of timber posts supporting them, we fix panels using either brackets or long galvanized screws in 8-12 contact points on each side.
In some cases trellis are required on top of panels, we make sure these are slotted and fitted steadily with thick galvanized screws and are unaffected from heavy winds.
Standard 6'x3' garden gates also come in many types and are fitted using long hinges. Almost always, three gate's large hinges and a safety bolt will be included by default in the quotes we give you.
We are also able to fit larger wooden double garden gates or any size metallic gates.
Deckings installed
In order to undertake a decking project, initially we verify the ground levels. Decking levels must be spot on, but gardens' are not.
We start preparation of the surrounding frame using 100mm treated joists. Once main frame is ready, we continue installing treated wooden posts at least 2' under ground in mixed concrete at every 1-2' gap. Intermediate joists are then installed on the main frame staggered, to create a full framed net. Boards are finally screwed onto the top, as well as sides of the frame. In case of steps needed, we prepare the skeleton first and finalize on all sides with boards. Under the new decking, we always fit a weed-control fabric membrane to prevent weeds and moss causing damage to the timber.
Artificial lawn
When installing artificial turf, we follow a similar process of ground preparation to patios (see above). The sub-base must be level and sound, weed-control membrane then grass follows on top, cut to size of the garden. There are four ways we secure the edges, depending on the surface; treated strips plus galvanized screws, concrete plugs plus galvanized screws, u-pinning or outdoor glue. The widest rolls supplied are 4m wide, therefore in case joints are needed we take extra care on performing this process promptly, so they are almost invisible. Artificial grass has a perfect water drainage.
Natural turf
Natural turf is kind of a job that requires also customer cooperation and attention. The turf laying involves ground excavation and rotation, clearing the ground from stones, roots, etc, building the level with top soil plus fertiliser and laying the new rolls in order and level. However, turf maintenance is something we cannot control. Therefore, watering the area regularly in a dry weather and mowing the new turf are considered solely customer's responsibility.
Wooden sheds
When you need space in your garden for storage, wooden sheds are one good option. A treated wooden shed will be guaranteed for 10 years and will last over 30 years with the correct maintenance. We offer supply and fit service for sheds of sizes 6'x4, 7'x7' or 8'x6', starting from £350.
Pergolas
We have had call outs for building pergolas. It starts by preparing a plan of work and a sketch which shows you how your pergola will look and what costs will be involved. Quotes vary depending on materials used and pergola size. There are usually two ways to finalize the roof; PVC polycarbonate or board & felt sheets.
Brickwork services
If on a project customer needs a wall built, we will include this on the quote. We show our customers a brochure with a range of bricks so they may pick their choice. We are able to build walls of any size or height.
Water-proof seal
After a driveway, patio or pathway are completed, or once these are jet-washed, in some cases customers have asked us for a water-proof seal. We can provide a standard, satin or wet-look seal on top of the surface which not only is water repellent, but protects the ground and gives the blocks or slabs/flagstones a better look at the end. You can always require a water-proof seal from us for a very low cost and will be very pleased with the results!
