Site clearance

Every new job starts with the site clearance. Every quotation we give to customers includes site clearance and waste (aggregates) removal arrangements.

A drive is always cleared and dugg more than a patio or pathway, simply because of suppression incurred due to daily usage of vehicles. Therefore, when we prepare a drive we take extra care of digging out more aggregates and soil, unless patios or paths where a shallower level applies. This applies also to any area which would be laid with slabs or tarmac.

In the depth that is cleared ground structure is also taken into consideration. If the existing area is made of soft components i.e. garden soil, it will be dugg out deeper than an area made of clay, gravel or existing hard surfaces such as limestone, concrete, etc.

There are three ways we use to digg up the driveways,patios or pathways. This is done by using either a JCB Grab Lorry or a JCB Mini-digger. In cases where areas are hard to reach via machines, where there are cables underneath, or where there is no need to go down very deep, we digg the site manually.

Ground is then levelled properly ready for the next step.

Drainage

In a relatively straight level area, its important to create a slight slope for drainage of the rain water. We make sure that this happens during excavating. In case area naturally slopes away from property, we just go along with that level *

In case area naturally slopes towards the property, then aco drains, soak aways or gullets need to be installed. These are always placed in the lowest point and are in most cases connected with the main drainage. Installing drainage when the slope heads towards the property is very important. In that case, original level will usually have to be followed. Changing the level to the other direction is unlikely due to the fact that this might affect the damp-proof course level.

Weed control

We understand how embarrasing is for someone to continuously have to deal with weeds, moss, lichens or algae from a drive, patio or pathway. Even worse if its a new job recently completed.

Coventry Driveways have the answer by fitting an extra layer of fabric weed-proof membrane on top of the prepared area which guarantees no weed growth for at least 5 years ! We trust that its worth for just a bit more time spent having peace of mind with the weeds, especially in the active weed-growing sites.

Sub-base layer

Next step is creating a sub-base of usually Type I limestone, however crushed concrete or crushed stones are also widely used. The depth of the base supplied is again dependant of the ground structure. We usually apply more base in surfaces previously built of soft components.

Sub-base is then compressed using a heavy duty Wacker Plate to create a strong and unique ground.

Sand layer

Semi wet sharp sand is applied in a thin layer on top of the base, covering all the area. Sand is then screeded using screeding rake or screeding bars.

We compress the area for a second time using the Wacker Plate.

Then we go to the re-screed process which consists on filling up all holes and dips and rectifying the humps by adding or removing sand where necessary. This ensures a perfect level.

Block paving

Blocks are applied manually on top of the plain sand and consist in many different patterns, but 5 of them are the most popular in wide use (see the picture below):

- 45 degree herringbone

- 90 degree herringbone

- basket weave

- stretcher bond

- crazy design

 

According to our long experience only 45 and 90 degree herringbone patterns are considered suitable for driveways. The rest are usually used for patios and pathways.

We use 60 mm thick blocks for a drive and 50 mm thick blocks for patios and pathways.

Blocks for paving usually come in 7 main colours:

red , brindle , grey , charcoal , buff , brown , rustic

Customers may use any colours or patterns against NO extra cost. Exception is made at the 45 degrees herringbone pattern which may cost a bit more.

Customer may add features or have the drive or patio plain colour. For example,a multicolour diamond, flower, or even your own house number may be added into a plain drive with NO extra cost. Follow the example below.

As well as standard blocks, which are the most popular, we offer tumbled (two or three size) blocks, clay blocks, or even permeable (improved water penetration) blocks to be used in a drive, patio or path.

Finishing cuts

When all blocks are installed, we use a Block-splitter or Heavy duty Grinder to finish up all cuts around the edge. In a 45 degree herringbone more work and time are needed to finish off the cuts.

In case of slabs, finishing cuts are done using a Stihl saw or Heavy duty Grinder.

Manhole covers and edging

Manhole covers are considered a complex job. We recommend Paver manhole covers, due to their ability to be less visual and therefore create a more modern drive or patio. Follow example below.

Usually, after all blocks are installed, the standard way to finish off is strong mortar mix around the egdes which strengthen the drive or patio. However, depending on customer request, we may also offer more advanced and modern ways to finish off as: edging kerbs, K-kerbs, scalloped edging, saw-tooth edging, soldier paving blocks, etc.

Final compaction and seal

Once edges are completed, area is compressed for the final time.

Right after, all joints are filled and sealed using a very fine sand. This ensures the maximum bond and strength to the drive, patio or path. Once sealed, its nearly impossible to remove a single block from the new drive.

Water-proof sealant (optional)

Once job is fully completed, customers may also ask for an additional water-proof sealant. Although not compulsory this is still considered important. Such layer enhances the look and reliability of the drive, patio or pathway, gives a pleasant sheen at the top surface, protects against moisture, moss, oil leaks and ant work. This may be provided at an additional low cost.

 

Other jobs we do

 

As mentioned in the homepage, we also can lay slabs, lay new turf, fit new fence panels, lay gravel, lay hot tarmac, build steps, build decorative walling, build standard brick walls, lay ready-mixed concrete and much more.

Slab laying

Slabs laying process is similar to block paving described above, with the only difference than slabs will be used instead of blocks. According to our experience, slabs of any thickness would not be considered suitable for a driveway because break easily unlike paving blocks and also are more vulnerable to create dips. However rare exceptions are made, if for example driveway is used for vehicles of small size and weight, etc.

Its important to know that final sealing of the joints for straight-edge slabs can also be done by fine Kiln Dried sand-the one that is used for sealing the paving blocks. However, in case of tilted-edge slabs where the joints in between are 3 mm or over, fine sealing sand cannot apply. Strong mixed mortar or Geofix will apply instead in the desired colour and depth.

Turf laying

1)Natural turf

Before we lay new turf, initially we clear the existing area and remove away all the rubbish. Level the area.

Free the ground from stones, roots, weeds, leaves,etc.

Add a thick layer of top soil plus fertiliser in order to give the new turf the maximum chance to plant and grow properly. Level the soil.

Finally we lay the new turf rolls in desired direction and then springle the area with a hose using plenty of water.

2)Artificial turf

Site is dugg and prepared. Waste is transported away. Existing soil is then levelled.

A thick layer of Type1 Limestone is applied, levelled and compacted. Weed-proof membrane applied thoroughly.

Sharp sand is thereafter applied, levelled, compacted and re-screeded. Artificial turf is laid in the area in desired direction. In case of large areas jointing strips will have to be applied underneath. All remaining edges are trimmed.

Fence panels

Initially all existing old panels and posts are removed and transported away.

New wooden posts are installed in the correct distance and level using strong ready mixed mortar. In case of concrete posts more mortar is added.

After wooden posts are installed, either overlapped or palisade fence panels are screwed or nailed straightaway into them. In case of concrete posts, gravelboards slide in between first and then the all panels are placed on top.

If feather-edge panels are used, since we have installed the wooden posts first, there are two ways of completing the fence. First and most popular way is installing prepared feather-edge pannels and the other way is installing supporting arris-rails first, then all feather-edge strips are individually nailed or screwed onto these rails.

Garden gates

Coventry Driveways will be able to supply and fit garden standard or large gates. These range from standard 1.8x0.9 metres wooden or metallic gates, large entrance wooden gates or large entrance metallic gates.

We are able to supply and fit even made-to-measure gates.

Gravel laying

Initially site is cleared, prepared and levelled. Weed-proof membrane is applied and gravel is laid on top in the proper level and depth.

Tarmac laying

We supply and lay hot tarmacadam upon customer request. This product comes in two colours: standard black and red.

Before we lay the tarmac we excavate and prepare the area as mentioned for paving. Unlike block paving, weed-proof membrane is not compulsory under the hot tarmac, however may still be fitted depending on circumstances.

If requested, a single or double egde surrounding border is installed, usually of paving blocks of various colours. These are installed in mixed mortar. If the site is surrounded by solid support i.e.walls, or edging kerbs, border blocks may be also laid on plain sand.

Then sub-base is applied and compressed. Finally a thick layer of hot tarmac is screeded and thereafter rolled upon with a heavy roller in order to compress it properly. Corners are tampered down with a tamper.

Steps

Where house entrance is too high and you are struggling to get in or out, steps are the answer.

We offer a wide range of steps, heights and shapes, however two are the most popular: square and half-circle steps.

Half-circle steps are harder to create and cost slightly more.

Decorative walling and standard brickwork

We can undertake directly any kind of decorative walling or standard brickwork.

By decorative walling we mean usage of bricks or blocks such as Antique, Old English, Moorland or Mellow, split walling stones, pond features, etc with heights from 250mm to 650mm.

Additionally, Coventry Driveways have completed several jobs which involve standard brickwork and have successfully finalized them. Some addresses where brickwork has been included are below:

- 157 Churchill Avenue, Coventry (front)

- 45 & 47 Sewall Highway, Coventry (front)

- 35 Alder Road, Coventry (front)

- 79 Loudon Avenue, Coventry (back)

- 6 St.Luke's Road, Coventry (front)

- 11 St.Luke's Road, Coventry (back)

- 135 Dillotford Avenue, Coventry (front)

- 64 Dumbleton Avenue, Leicester (front)

- 44 Edward Road, Coventry (front)

- 434 Ansty Road, Coventry (front)

- 63 Heath Road, Bedworth (front)

- 424 Binley Road, Coventry (front)

- 731 Sewall Highway, Coventry (front)

(more will be added soon)

Ready-mixed concrete laying

Occasionally, we have completed jobs of ready-mix concrete laying. The preparation is similar to paving or tarmac, however the working area is usually dugg less and weed-proof membrane will not be necessary. Depending on ground structure sub-base will be laid first.Once levelled,area is compresed and a thick layer of ready-mixed concrete is poured on top. In some cases a mesh may have to apply before concrete is poured. Concrete is then levelled evenly using a heavy plank, afterwards smoothed out using a power float. After concrete has dried completely, customer may optionally request to paint it with their favourite colour or seal it.

Concrete repair & resurface

As well as laying new concrete, you could save money by repairing or resurfacing your old concrete drive, by giving it a tarmac-like look and bringing it to life. We examine the old concrete and repair it (if possible) or re-surface it and finish up with bitumen or masonry paint.

 

* According to new Council SUDS Regulations, residents will have to install soak-away drainage in the bottom of the driveway, use permeable paving blocks or use porous asphalt for their driveways. For more information, please visit the following link.

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